I made far more waves than on my last trip to Portugal. There is enough rocker for steeper drops but I got into waves so much earlier that this benefit was required on only a few occasions. I have tried it in overhead surf in Portugal. Pretty much matched the wave catching of those on long boards and to my immense surprise found myself making far sharper turns than I ever imagined I could. I surfed it in small superclean 2 foot waves and caught a shed full. More wearing on the arms than the 6’6″ but far less so than a previous minimal. So far I have surfed this in stormy onshore mush with continuous duck diving. He placed the fin a little further forward. I looked at the 7.25″ fin and was dubious. I had come to terms with the fact that I am unlikely now to be getting vertical but did and do want to keep improving with my turns and I wanted a board with a bit more volume and paddle speed that was more responsive than a minimal or other standard larger volume boards and easier to duck dive. My 6’6″ was great, but my wave count was down. I was never a great surfer and things were getting worse. So, I am getting older and am less fit and my back hurts most of the time. Here are a few snippets of what our customers and demo riders have to say: Paddy, usually surfs boards, in the 6’6″ – 8’0″ range We have had many surfers trying this board, all of different surfing backgrounds and calibres. Photo by Spike Chambers What has the response been? The beaked nose design allows the volume in the board to be carried all the way through the nose which gives more float under the chest and increases paddle power. The vee through the tail allows the board to roll from rail to rail easily, helping to turn the board. The single concave gives speed and lift, allowing easy paddling and glide in to waves. Underneath the board, we have chosen to go with a single concave to a vee through the fins and out of the tail. A thinner, down-turned rail in the tail, allows the rail to be sunk and the fin(s) engaged more, increasing manoeuvrability. Consequently this gives a combination of float and performance. With Nigel’s background in performance shortboard riding (ex-European champ) and manufacturing, we have designed the board with a medium rail profile. Similarly, you’ll be floating over the flat sections of the waves. Riding this board, you’ll find easy entry in to waves and plenty of glide. Above all, we wanted something longboard and shortboard riders being can appreciate and ride the board the way they want. Working with Nigel Semmens of Ocean Magic Surfboards, we have come up with a board that we hope will appeal to many types of surfers. These points have been the focus for designing the new mid length surfboard. You need a board that will bring a smile to your face in any conditions Turn up to your local and the waves are not inspiring you to get in. From personal experience, it is very difficult to surf a wave like this on any type of shortboard. Here on the South coast, we certainly know what a messy, knee high wave looks like.
Maybe they are reforming and just looking like hard work. Perhaps the tide is wrong and the waves are backing off. Quite often it can be very small or messy. As a result, we surf in whatever conditions there are. Above all, most people cannot pick and chose when they surf. You can count yourself lucky if you live walking distance to a consistent surf spot. Can you really surf them in small, messy conditions? This may not necessarily because of ability your local spot maybe a great longboard wave. “Ride this all rounder 2-3 inches shorter than your standard shortboard” is a phrase that is no use to someone who surfs a longboard 90% of the time. Some surfers find they might not be able to catch waves and pop up on a shortboard, regardless of how high volume it is. We feel this is ruling out a large percentage of surfers who do not surf a shortboard. These boards have been designed for the average shortboarder, not the average surfer. A popular all-round board… but is it any good for the average surfer that doesn’t shortboard? These “all rounders” work well and do indeed handle a variety of conditions, however we have found that many of the designs have a few limiting factors: They are not designed for the average surfer
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